Francesca and Henk-Jan's Backpacking Trip!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
History Lessons In Manilla
The flight from Puerto Princesa to Manila went by quickly, and since we’d landed there a few times now we knew exactly where to go. We got a taxi and were taken to Adriatico Street, where the reception already knew about our impending arrival. Our old room was waiting for us, so we could check right in and drop our bags off.
We relaxed for a while, but knew we had a mission to complete: finding a new camera to buy or rent. We knew the import taxes to the Philippines were high, so we preferred the second option, but couldn’t find any options online. In the Robinson’s Mall we hoped our chances would improve. Francesca and I must have gone into 20 different stores, looking at real cheapies, disposables and expensive cameras. We more or less had had our eyes set on a new sturdy Sony camera that would also work for snorkeling, but found it for twice the price we’d seen online. No camera for us…
Instead, we went for a bite at the Pancake House, where Francesca satisfied her craving for chicken strips and waffles whilst I had a pasta salad. By the time we were done eating we had a new goal. Independence Day was to be celebrated in the nearby Lunetta Park, with a parade and cultural performances. The only problem was that we had no idea what time it started since everyone we asked had given us different information. We decided to walk and arrived at our destination half an hour later. Fireworks were going off in the distance. A lot of people were heading the opposite direction from us, which made us fear we had missed it. Luckily it wasn’t all over as the cultural performance was still going on. A large stage had been set up for a fashion show of sorts, showing off costumes of different tribes around the nation from different eras.
The show lasted for half an hour or so, after which we walked back to the main road to see if anything else was going on. We stopped at the Army and Air Force stands where Francesca had her picture taken with several pilots. Hungry for a snack we grabbed some strawberry popcorn and a water to hold us over. On our way back through the park we realized the celebrations were over and looked for a taxi. They seemed difficult to find… So when a horse-drawn cart showed up and offered to take us back to the hostel we jumped at the opportunity of supporting a dying breed (as well as the driver and his horse) of transport.
We returned to Friendly’s right before one of the World Cup’s games started and I finally got to see some decent football again. Hurrah for that! The 13th was to be a museum day. Last time we had missed the biggest floor of the Ayala Museum, so we had to go back there. Before leaving for the museum we had a delicious brunch at the Café Adriatico. Francesca’s pork adobo, my putanesca and our shared mushroom ciabattas were once again of the highest standard. Outside the restaurant we found a taxi to take us to the Ayala Museum.
On the first floor of the Ayala Museum we first checked out the exhibitions on the works of famous Filipino painter Vicente Menansala. We both really liked his style of painting, with ‘The Many Masks of Eve’ and ‘Beggars’ were our favorites. We’d already gotten our audio-guides for the 2nd floor and walked straight there. The second we walked in we realized we had a momentous task ahead: there were over 50 dioramas and Francesca wanted a description of all of them on paper. We started out with a diorama from 750.000 BC. It showed the elephant-hunting ancestors of the Filipinos. In the following dioramas we got a pretty good idea of the ancient history of this area. We learned that the locals had a good grasp of pottery-making, which is why a large collection of pottery remains until this day. 6000 BC is considered the golden age of Filipino pottery. The Palawan Burial caves are a unique site where important burial jars that indicated that the people had a notion of the afterlife were found.
Crossing from BC to AD we saw the Rice Terraces of the Ifuago being made: 3000 acres of walled fields built from the bottom upwards and still in use today. The introduction of Islam in 1200 AD was a big turning point for the southern island of the Philippines: Mindanao fell for the new religion and remains Muslim until this day. It took more than 300 years before the Catholics also made their way to the nation. In 1521 captain Pigafetta landed with 50 men, invoked the kings, kissed the cross and worshipped the Lord. In the same year the battle of Mactan between Lapu-Lapu and Magellan took place. De Legazpi’s Sikatuna Blood Compact was signed in 1565, negotiating a peace treaty between the native chiefs and the Spanish. They drank a concoction of wine and blood of each of the participants to become ‘blood brothers.’
Regardless of the Blood Compact the locals fought back and rebelled from time to time. The Spanish were surprised to found advanced cannons in some of the fortifications and were defeated at times. Brother Juan Clemente’s hospital, set up in 1578, became a symbol for the conquest of the country by Catholicism. The Franciscans built hospitals, and combined the healing practices with religious teaching. Because the locals saw they were being healed seeing became believing.
Other than the Spaniards the Chinese had also made a mark on the Philippines. They traded with the locals and set up permanent quarters for themselves. The Spaniards always mistrusted the Chinese, and vice versa, so when a rumor reached the Chinese Quarter that their water was being poisoned they revolted. The Spaniards and locals struck back and killed roughly 20.000 Chinese, keeping the survivors as slaves. One area the Spaniards never conquered was Mindanao, where the Islam had a firm grasp on the region.
In the following two centuries Catholicism became more and more embedded in society. It gave the Spanish friars immense power over the people; power they were all too unwilling to release. In 1719 a Spanish governor was killed by friars and locals because the Spanish government wanted to stop the friars from taking all the power to the church. It was not only the government the friars had to worry about: during the Dagohoy Revolt of 1744-1827 the townsfolk rebelled against the abusive priests. The leader of the rebellion took his people into the mountains of Bohol, from where they continued to attack the Spanish.
Due to wars in Europe, where the British emerged victorious and the Spanish lost the Philippines came under British rule for some time. The British bombed Manila for 10 days, after which they took the city and sent the Spanish packing. They however had no interest in the country and left again two years later in 1764. The Spanish returned and assumed control once more. More than a century of relative peace follows until the Spanish revolution of 1869 leads to a new Republican government there. The new leader, eager to improve life in the colony, decides to allow free public discussions in the streets. A wave of liberal thinking hits the country, with Rizal’s ‘Noli Me Tangere’ (‘Don’t Touch Me’) as a masterpiece describing the flaws of society at the time.
In 1892 The ‘Katipunan Initiation Rites’ (KKK) is formed in Manila as a revolutionary organization for nationalism. The KKK launched its revolution in 1896, when the locals, under leadership of Bonifacio, tear up their tax certificates. The Spanish fight back and look for the leaders of the revolution. They find that Rizal’s books incite the people to revolt and in a mock trial sentence him to death. Rizal actually never wanted a revolution, stating so on multiple occasions. Regardless, it sparked the beginning of the end for the Spanish. Opposition grew and the Spanish were pushed back more and more, regardless of internal strife between two main parties: Andres Bonifacio’s supporters and Emilio Aguinaldo’s people.
When the end of Spanish rule came in sight for the Filipinos something unexpected happened. The Americans came and attacked. Spain quickly surrenders Manila to the US in 1898 and Aguinaldo surrounds Manila, hoping to take credit for the victory. The US stops him and sends him and his forces away. Aguinaldo tried to get the Philippines recognized as an independent country before the Americans could officially lay claim to the islands, but his pleas to Europe fell on death ears and the Filipinos were left to fend for themselves.
Inevitably a war breaks out between the Philippines and the US. The Americans take city after city by force, but find pockets of resistance here and there. Famous Filipino heroes such as Antonio Luna and Gregorio del Pilar see their finest moments (and their deaths). Aguinaldo continues annoying the Americans, which eventually leads them to trick him into coming in for peace talks. Aguinaldo gets captured, but the war continues for 3 more years. A Filipino bishop realizes the same could happen to the church as happened under Spanish rule, so he decides to set up the first independent church.
During the following decades the US slowly retreat and make way for an all-Filipino government. Manuel Quezon realized he would need American aid to keep the country going and his pro-American views helped him become the first president of the commonwealth of the Philippines on the 15th of November 1935. The country returns to peace and flourishes in the following years. Then, just like 44 years before, war hits the Filipinos hard. Japan hits Pearl Harbor in 1942 and a few hours later take Manila. The Americans, under leadership of General MacArthur flee. MacArthur vows he’ll return, giving the people hope they’ve not been abandoned entirely. The Japanese assume a brutal command over the country and the people have to fight again. The guerilla groups are mildly successful, but do not gain major ground until they fall under General MacArthur’s unifying command. In 1944 the Japanese are defeated.
In 1946 the American flag is lowered and the Philippines is finally recognized as an independent nation. MacArthur is received with an ovation. Up until 1965 all is well in the new nation, until a man named Ferdinand Marcos along with charismatic wife Imelda wins the elections. In 1972 this man declared Martial Law. Marcos limited press freedom and other civil liberties, closed down Congress and media establishments, and ordered the arrest of opposition leaders and militant activists, including his staunchest critics senators Benigno Aquino, Jr., Jovito Salonga and Jose Diokno. The declaration of martial law was initially well received, given the social turmoil the Philippines was experiencing. Crime rates plunged dramatically after a curfew was implemented. Many political opponents were forced to go into exile. The economy during the 1970s grew exponentially. However, Marcos also pocketed a lot of the profits himself, and let corruption soar. In 1981 Marcos finally lifted the Martial Law. Marcos actually won the following election, even though rumors of fraud were rampant. 2 years later one of Marcos’ main opponents, Benigno Aquino Jr., was to return to the Philippines after heart surgery in the USA. Shortly after his arrival Aquino was assassinated. Whether Marcos was behind it remained unclear, but the result of the murder was a snap election that Marcos lost to Aquino’s widow. Since that time the Philippines has enjoyed relative peace.
Filled with this much new information Francesca and I finally managed to say goodbye to the Ayala Museum. Outside it was pouring, but luckily we were able to stay dry, making our way through nearby malls and ending up in the Hard Rock Café. We’d promised to get Uncle Randy a new pin, and now he’ll be able to add another one to his collection! A taxi then took us back to the hostel, where we enjoyed a quiet evening.
The 14th of June was marked by the ‘real’ start of the World Cup! The Dutch were playing in the evening, and we spent the first half of the day looking for the best way to get to Banaue, up in the north of Philippines. We found a good overnight bus company that would take us, but I already started dreading another 12 hour drive on bumpy, windy roads. Regardless, evening came and I had my spot on the couch secured whilst Francesca ordered pizza which we ate whilst the Dutch had a hard time breaking the Danish defense. It felt good watching football again after such a long period of not having been able to.
The 15th ended up being a lazy day. We had decided not to go to Banaue’s rice terraces, having seen awe inspiring paddies in northern Vietnam already. Instead, we looked into going to Vigan, a town north of Manila famous for its rich Spanish colonial architecture. Cheap flights were available through Cebu Pacific, but when we tried to book them the offer had expired. I ran to the Cebu Pacific office in the mall nearby, but they told me they couldn’t book the flights either; we had to go to the airport, where the price was uncertain, but certainly substantially higher than the price we’d seen. We ended up booking a flight for the following day, with the return flight a few days later. I also made a reservation for a cool dinner in an old Spanish mansion which Francesca had found.
Our flight to Laoag, a city near Vigan left at 5:10 PM, so we had some time in the afternoon to see a museum or two in Manila. After sleeping in I didn’t feel much for this idea, so I dropped Francesca off at the museum and went back to pack the bags. Francesca will now tell you all about her adventures in these museums.
We relaxed for a while, but knew we had a mission to complete: finding a new camera to buy or rent. We knew the import taxes to the Philippines were high, so we preferred the second option, but couldn’t find any options online. In the Robinson’s Mall we hoped our chances would improve. Francesca and I must have gone into 20 different stores, looking at real cheapies, disposables and expensive cameras. We more or less had had our eyes set on a new sturdy Sony camera that would also work for snorkeling, but found it for twice the price we’d seen online. No camera for us…
Instead, we went for a bite at the Pancake House, where Francesca satisfied her craving for chicken strips and waffles whilst I had a pasta salad. By the time we were done eating we had a new goal. Independence Day was to be celebrated in the nearby Lunetta Park, with a parade and cultural performances. The only problem was that we had no idea what time it started since everyone we asked had given us different information. We decided to walk and arrived at our destination half an hour later. Fireworks were going off in the distance. A lot of people were heading the opposite direction from us, which made us fear we had missed it. Luckily it wasn’t all over as the cultural performance was still going on. A large stage had been set up for a fashion show of sorts, showing off costumes of different tribes around the nation from different eras.
The show lasted for half an hour or so, after which we walked back to the main road to see if anything else was going on. We stopped at the Army and Air Force stands where Francesca had her picture taken with several pilots. Hungry for a snack we grabbed some strawberry popcorn and a water to hold us over. On our way back through the park we realized the celebrations were over and looked for a taxi. They seemed difficult to find… So when a horse-drawn cart showed up and offered to take us back to the hostel we jumped at the opportunity of supporting a dying breed (as well as the driver and his horse) of transport.
We returned to Friendly’s right before one of the World Cup’s games started and I finally got to see some decent football again. Hurrah for that! The 13th was to be a museum day. Last time we had missed the biggest floor of the Ayala Museum, so we had to go back there. Before leaving for the museum we had a delicious brunch at the Café Adriatico. Francesca’s pork adobo, my putanesca and our shared mushroom ciabattas were once again of the highest standard. Outside the restaurant we found a taxi to take us to the Ayala Museum.
On the first floor of the Ayala Museum we first checked out the exhibitions on the works of famous Filipino painter Vicente Menansala. We both really liked his style of painting, with ‘The Many Masks of Eve’ and ‘Beggars’ were our favorites. We’d already gotten our audio-guides for the 2nd floor and walked straight there. The second we walked in we realized we had a momentous task ahead: there were over 50 dioramas and Francesca wanted a description of all of them on paper. We started out with a diorama from 750.000 BC. It showed the elephant-hunting ancestors of the Filipinos. In the following dioramas we got a pretty good idea of the ancient history of this area. We learned that the locals had a good grasp of pottery-making, which is why a large collection of pottery remains until this day. 6000 BC is considered the golden age of Filipino pottery. The Palawan Burial caves are a unique site where important burial jars that indicated that the people had a notion of the afterlife were found.
Crossing from BC to AD we saw the Rice Terraces of the Ifuago being made: 3000 acres of walled fields built from the bottom upwards and still in use today. The introduction of Islam in 1200 AD was a big turning point for the southern island of the Philippines: Mindanao fell for the new religion and remains Muslim until this day. It took more than 300 years before the Catholics also made their way to the nation. In 1521 captain Pigafetta landed with 50 men, invoked the kings, kissed the cross and worshipped the Lord. In the same year the battle of Mactan between Lapu-Lapu and Magellan took place. De Legazpi’s Sikatuna Blood Compact was signed in 1565, negotiating a peace treaty between the native chiefs and the Spanish. They drank a concoction of wine and blood of each of the participants to become ‘blood brothers.’
Regardless of the Blood Compact the locals fought back and rebelled from time to time. The Spanish were surprised to found advanced cannons in some of the fortifications and were defeated at times. Brother Juan Clemente’s hospital, set up in 1578, became a symbol for the conquest of the country by Catholicism. The Franciscans built hospitals, and combined the healing practices with religious teaching. Because the locals saw they were being healed seeing became believing.
Other than the Spaniards the Chinese had also made a mark on the Philippines. They traded with the locals and set up permanent quarters for themselves. The Spaniards always mistrusted the Chinese, and vice versa, so when a rumor reached the Chinese Quarter that their water was being poisoned they revolted. The Spaniards and locals struck back and killed roughly 20.000 Chinese, keeping the survivors as slaves. One area the Spaniards never conquered was Mindanao, where the Islam had a firm grasp on the region.
In the following two centuries Catholicism became more and more embedded in society. It gave the Spanish friars immense power over the people; power they were all too unwilling to release. In 1719 a Spanish governor was killed by friars and locals because the Spanish government wanted to stop the friars from taking all the power to the church. It was not only the government the friars had to worry about: during the Dagohoy Revolt of 1744-1827 the townsfolk rebelled against the abusive priests. The leader of the rebellion took his people into the mountains of Bohol, from where they continued to attack the Spanish.
Due to wars in Europe, where the British emerged victorious and the Spanish lost the Philippines came under British rule for some time. The British bombed Manila for 10 days, after which they took the city and sent the Spanish packing. They however had no interest in the country and left again two years later in 1764. The Spanish returned and assumed control once more. More than a century of relative peace follows until the Spanish revolution of 1869 leads to a new Republican government there. The new leader, eager to improve life in the colony, decides to allow free public discussions in the streets. A wave of liberal thinking hits the country, with Rizal’s ‘Noli Me Tangere’ (‘Don’t Touch Me’) as a masterpiece describing the flaws of society at the time.
In 1892 The ‘Katipunan Initiation Rites’ (KKK) is formed in Manila as a revolutionary organization for nationalism. The KKK launched its revolution in 1896, when the locals, under leadership of Bonifacio, tear up their tax certificates. The Spanish fight back and look for the leaders of the revolution. They find that Rizal’s books incite the people to revolt and in a mock trial sentence him to death. Rizal actually never wanted a revolution, stating so on multiple occasions. Regardless, it sparked the beginning of the end for the Spanish. Opposition grew and the Spanish were pushed back more and more, regardless of internal strife between two main parties: Andres Bonifacio’s supporters and Emilio Aguinaldo’s people.
When the end of Spanish rule came in sight for the Filipinos something unexpected happened. The Americans came and attacked. Spain quickly surrenders Manila to the US in 1898 and Aguinaldo surrounds Manila, hoping to take credit for the victory. The US stops him and sends him and his forces away. Aguinaldo tried to get the Philippines recognized as an independent country before the Americans could officially lay claim to the islands, but his pleas to Europe fell on death ears and the Filipinos were left to fend for themselves.
Inevitably a war breaks out between the Philippines and the US. The Americans take city after city by force, but find pockets of resistance here and there. Famous Filipino heroes such as Antonio Luna and Gregorio del Pilar see their finest moments (and their deaths). Aguinaldo continues annoying the Americans, which eventually leads them to trick him into coming in for peace talks. Aguinaldo gets captured, but the war continues for 3 more years. A Filipino bishop realizes the same could happen to the church as happened under Spanish rule, so he decides to set up the first independent church.
During the following decades the US slowly retreat and make way for an all-Filipino government. Manuel Quezon realized he would need American aid to keep the country going and his pro-American views helped him become the first president of the commonwealth of the Philippines on the 15th of November 1935. The country returns to peace and flourishes in the following years. Then, just like 44 years before, war hits the Filipinos hard. Japan hits Pearl Harbor in 1942 and a few hours later take Manila. The Americans, under leadership of General MacArthur flee. MacArthur vows he’ll return, giving the people hope they’ve not been abandoned entirely. The Japanese assume a brutal command over the country and the people have to fight again. The guerilla groups are mildly successful, but do not gain major ground until they fall under General MacArthur’s unifying command. In 1944 the Japanese are defeated.
In 1946 the American flag is lowered and the Philippines is finally recognized as an independent nation. MacArthur is received with an ovation. Up until 1965 all is well in the new nation, until a man named Ferdinand Marcos along with charismatic wife Imelda wins the elections. In 1972 this man declared Martial Law. Marcos limited press freedom and other civil liberties, closed down Congress and media establishments, and ordered the arrest of opposition leaders and militant activists, including his staunchest critics senators Benigno Aquino, Jr., Jovito Salonga and Jose Diokno. The declaration of martial law was initially well received, given the social turmoil the Philippines was experiencing. Crime rates plunged dramatically after a curfew was implemented. Many political opponents were forced to go into exile. The economy during the 1970s grew exponentially. However, Marcos also pocketed a lot of the profits himself, and let corruption soar. In 1981 Marcos finally lifted the Martial Law. Marcos actually won the following election, even though rumors of fraud were rampant. 2 years later one of Marcos’ main opponents, Benigno Aquino Jr., was to return to the Philippines after heart surgery in the USA. Shortly after his arrival Aquino was assassinated. Whether Marcos was behind it remained unclear, but the result of the murder was a snap election that Marcos lost to Aquino’s widow. Since that time the Philippines has enjoyed relative peace.
Filled with this much new information Francesca and I finally managed to say goodbye to the Ayala Museum. Outside it was pouring, but luckily we were able to stay dry, making our way through nearby malls and ending up in the Hard Rock Café. We’d promised to get Uncle Randy a new pin, and now he’ll be able to add another one to his collection! A taxi then took us back to the hostel, where we enjoyed a quiet evening.
The 14th of June was marked by the ‘real’ start of the World Cup! The Dutch were playing in the evening, and we spent the first half of the day looking for the best way to get to Banaue, up in the north of Philippines. We found a good overnight bus company that would take us, but I already started dreading another 12 hour drive on bumpy, windy roads. Regardless, evening came and I had my spot on the couch secured whilst Francesca ordered pizza which we ate whilst the Dutch had a hard time breaking the Danish defense. It felt good watching football again after such a long period of not having been able to.
The 15th ended up being a lazy day. We had decided not to go to Banaue’s rice terraces, having seen awe inspiring paddies in northern Vietnam already. Instead, we looked into going to Vigan, a town north of Manila famous for its rich Spanish colonial architecture. Cheap flights were available through Cebu Pacific, but when we tried to book them the offer had expired. I ran to the Cebu Pacific office in the mall nearby, but they told me they couldn’t book the flights either; we had to go to the airport, where the price was uncertain, but certainly substantially higher than the price we’d seen. We ended up booking a flight for the following day, with the return flight a few days later. I also made a reservation for a cool dinner in an old Spanish mansion which Francesca had found.
Our flight to Laoag, a city near Vigan left at 5:10 PM, so we had some time in the afternoon to see a museum or two in Manila. After sleeping in I didn’t feel much for this idea, so I dropped Francesca off at the museum and went back to pack the bags. Francesca will now tell you all about her adventures in these museums.
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